Baby's First Abacus

I saw this while shopping for school supplies. I love that the dog appears to be blow-drying its hair. In my city you can see people using an abacus to calculate payment in places like the post office. It's pretty cool to see their fingers move those beads around so confidently.

By the way, is the plural of abacus 'abacuses' or 'abaci'? Hmm.

Friends and the Missing Sandwiches

I'm been slacking lately on taking pictures, so I planned to take some photos of our excursion today. I went with friends to the special market to buy oh-so-rare-and-precious salami, cheese, fresh basil and western style salty bread to make panini sandwiches for dinner. This is how we are celebrating our holiday: eating stuff we'd never think twice about back in America, but is a real treat for us here. (One of them was cooking when we took this picture.) But after we made them, I forgot to make pictures before we scarfed them down. We were just that hungry and excited to be eating them.  It was the first time I've felt really full all week. (Insert joke about Chinese food here.)

Afterward, we played Uno, watched old-school rap videos and hung out chatting. Some other friends came over later, they drank wine, more chatting. This is my life in China.

Life On The D-List*

Last week Tristan made an astute observation: "In China, we're like D-list celebrities." It's true: people don't know our names, but they recognize us and want to know what we're doing, buying and eating. And they want to be our friend. (I think Tristan said this because some kids came to our table during dinner to stare/talk to us while we were eating; he's a tall, muscular, tough-looking guy who shaves his head. I love watching people spot him on the sidewalk, then get out of the way.) People treat us like we're living in our own little reality show, and they want to be a part of it. This isn't a bad thing, but after over a year here, I am still not comfortable with being treated differently. However, it does make for some interesting and/or unusual interactions.

For example, this past week, I got a random call from a girl I didn't remember but evidently sat next to on the bus going to school. People here are always asking for our phone numbers, and I used to be hesitant about giving it out, but then I realized they don't really call you, they just want a foreigner's phone number in their cell phone. But this girl did call, and asked me to meet her for lunch. I jokingly called it my first Chinese blind date, because I didn't remember her at all! Turns out she's an accounting major at my school and has to take a Business English certificate exam in November; she wants to practice her English conversations skills so she has a better chance of passing the exam, and in turn getting a better job. I'm glad to help her out because helping students is the main reason I'm here in the Peace Corps. And I am especially mindful of helping the girls, who have historically faced disadvantages.

So, living life on the D-list isn't comfortable for me, and I doubt it ever will be, but if it allows me opportunities to help people out, I can't complain. But I still look forward to anonymity when I return to the U.S.!

In other news, I have back-to-back holidays this week and next: National Day (October 1st, celebrating the founding of the People's Republic of China under the Chinese Communist Party, and Mid-Autumn Festival, a harvest and family reunion holiday. I have 3 days off from school for each holiday, so I don't have to go back to school until next Friday, Oct. 9th. I'll be doing some fun things around the city on my days off. Hope you all have a great weekend!

*Stolen from the title of Kathy Griffin's reality series.

Understanding Paths

In Chinese, the verb 'to know' as in 'understand and be aware of' is made up of two characters, 'know' 知 and 'way' 道.* So in Chinese, understanding is not just knowing, it's knowing the way, or path, to take. I think this is a really beautiful sentiment, as well as a very wise one. I like the idea that a part of understanding is taking action. Understanding motivates action, and hopefully, the right action for you. 


I'm trying to understand my 'calling' in life, my relationships, and my professional and personal goals. Maybe I don't need to be so hard on myself, that I don't understand it all easily. I'm still moving forward, which shows some level of understanding. Thanks, China, for this lesson.


*道 is also the character for Taoism, or 'The Way'

But What Do The Teen Sons Think Of The Cat?

Weirdest Chinglish shirt I've seen yet. And that's saying a lot.

So, Now I Am A Pusher

Well, it has come to this, China: I shoved someone out of the way on the subway yesterday. Not just blocked, pushed. My transformation into aggressive public transportation user is complete. New York, here I come! (Except, um, in New York I'll probably get knifed. Note to self: push the reset button at Customs.)

So, there is a story behind it: one of my friends here is JoAnn, an awesome lady who is a retired Wall Street programmer from Long Island. This is her third Peace Corps assignment. There is a tradition in China to give up your seat to the elderly, and people actually do it, willingly. I've done it, and it's a really nice tradition and wish it were done in more places. Anyway, we were waiting to get on the train car and because I've been in China longer, I'm a better push-my-way-through-the-crowd public transport rider. I pushed my way in and found two seats together, putting my purse down on the seat next to me to wait for JoAnn to get in the car. As she was getting close, I began moving my purse out of the way for her, when out of nowhere a Chinese guy starts sliding into her spot. I put my hands on his back, yelled "DON'T SIT", and pushed him from sitting down. Now, Chinese people do this to each other, but they don't expect it from a foreigner; he turned around half-shocked, but saw JoAnn and sort of nodded like, "Oh, okay, old person, gotcha." But seriously? I would have shoved him out of the way for a young person too. It's like Darwinism here, all the time, and if you don't grab what you need, you'll never get it.

I didn't expect to become this person.

The Flower Anus Is Not Where You Think It Is

Me: "Where are we meeting for lunch?"

R.: "Floweriness Cafe"

Me: "Flower Anus Cafe?"

Me: "Hahahahahha!" (Because I have the brain of 12 year old boy; also, she did say 'flower anus'.)

R.: "Flower - i - ness Cafe."'

Me: "Wow. Awkward name."

This cafe is an attempt at a "Western" style cafe. It was not good enough for how expensive it was. Nice ambiance though, very different from where I usually eat.

Chinese Pizza Hut

Pizza Hut was one of the first Western restaurants to open branches in mainland China, back in the early 90's, and they're very fancy and upscale and I feel weird eating at them. Also, expensive! Here's a photo of a Chinese Pizza Hut interior:

Pretty romantic, eh?

They have the basic pizzas you can order in the U.S., but also some local specialties. A few of us went to Pizza Hut earlier this month (for only the third time since I've been here), and Mike ordered this tubular creation:

And I hate to say it, but it kinda grossed me out, because it reminded me of these*...

...and no way did I want little stinging sausages shooting out of bread tubes at me while I'm eating dinner.

*sea anemones

The Tragedy of the Video iPod: In One Act

So you know the Mac sad face? It really is... just so sad. My 80gb video iPod bit the dust a few weeks ago. It's only two years old, but in Apple's defense, I drop it all the time. Should I not be doing that? Anyway, I found out there's an authorized/certified/official Apple repair shop in Chongqing. HOORAY. A video iPod is not a necessity by a long shot, but so easy to love.

Now the bad news: the repair guy at the shop informs me video iPods are not legally sold in China; only Touches, Nanos and the little baby ones can legally be sold here, so those are the only products they have replacement parts for. (The word of the day is 'legally.') Oh wait: first he tries telling me 80gb is too big, I should get an 8gb Touch, 8gb is much better than 80gb. Um, what, crazy man? No. 80gb is just fine. After we have this argument and I refuse his 90% sell down, he tells me, "Well, I can get a black market 80 gb video hard drive and just install it for you myself. But it won't have the warranty." Just to clarify: the OFFICIAL APPLE REPAIR SHOP is offering to sell and install black market goods?

Man, I love China.

UPDATE: iPhones were announced last month for the Mainland, but haven't been sold yet. No video iPods, though. Sad face.

UPDATE 2: Today I saw a 160gb video iPod at the Apple store. I'm going back to the repair shop to ask about it.

Dining Out In China: A Long Way From Chilis*

One big difference between Chinese and American culture: the expectation of friendliness. It doesn't really exist here. Because there is no expectation of an egalitarian society, there is no need to be friendly with people who can't help you or whom you're paying for a service. For example, it's noticeable to Westerners that here there is no friendly greeting or bantering between customers and employees in a restaurant. No need to make pseudo-friends with your waiter and hear, 'Hi, my name is Mike, I'll be your server tonight blah blah blah." Instead, here's what happens in an average Chinese restaurant where I live:

1. You walk to the door and someone asks how many people. They wave their hand in the general direction of an empty table and you sit down wherever you like. (If you had a lot of people they'd move tables together, that's the only reason they ask.)

2. There is one menu on an empty table. Someone comes to give you tea; this person doesn't say anything to you. Someone else comes to get your order. One person orders for the table. All food is communal. There is a small pad of paper and pen attached to the menu. You write down what you want (I can finally do this in Chinese characters, hooray!) and hand it to them, or tell them verbally by just saying the name of the food. No need for "I'll have the...." or "Can I please have the....". You just say it: "Chicken dish. Vegetable. Rice. Beer. Okay, enough."

3. There is no assigned waitress or waiter. Someone will bring your food back to you. If you want more of anything, you just flag someone down or yell really loudly, "WAITER!" No one is offended by this. You tell them what you want by just saying "more rice" or whatever. No need for "Can I please have more...?"

4. Stay as long as you want. No one will come back to check on you; once your food is delivered, you're on your own. (If you order a lot of dishes, expect as least one will be forgotten and you'll have to order it again.) When your table is finished, you yell out, 'WAITER! BILL!" and someone comes and visually counts the dishes on your table, totals it up and tells you what you owe.

5. Cash only. And you can try bargaining! Usually they say no, but you can try.

6. Walk out. No tip. No new waiter friend. But when you go back, they'll remember you and treat you well by bringing your food promptly and well-cooked.

I wonder if I'll think it's weird and unnecessary the next time I hear, "Hi, my name is Mike, and I'll be your server this evening..." And I wonder how much sticker shock I'll have by Western food prices!  I cringe at the amount I spent on food before. I could eat for a month here on what I spent on some single meals. I'm never going to want to go on a dinner date again, I'll feel too guilty!

*Chilis is my junk food guilty pleasure. Boneless buffalo wings and unlimited chips and salsa FTW!